Behind the Green Doors

"Good raki, it's all okay!"

"You liked the raki I gave you. I think we will go now to a rakadiko, raki house. But it's very traditional..." Vassilis' voice trailed off, wondering if I was up to it. Meanwhile, I stared at the back of the black beast in front of me. It was a Greek motorcycle, not a Cretan minotaur, but I had about equal experience in leaping over either. I had gritted my teeth and agreed to ride it only because there was no other mode of transportation available to visit the Politakis workshop where he had demonstrated the art of decorating Minoan pottery.

Now it was time for the return trip through the lively downtown traffic of nighttime Heraklion.

Raki might be just the thing I needed to recover.

The Rudiments of Raki

Made from the grape must left over from the winemaking process, raki is a highly distilled liquor. Similar brews are made everywhere wine is processed. Locally, on the island of Crete, it is also known as tsikoudia. Some Greeks ascribe medicinal and even mystical properties to the drink, but most just enjoy it as a warming and pleasant drink, especially when consumed with friends and small plates of savory appetizers or mezes. Think Greek tapas.

Behind the Green Doors

Located on Pediakos Street, the "Green Doors" once had another name but years of repeatedly painting the woodwork made the nickname stick. Owned by Dimitris Stamatakis, the raki house straddles a narrow lane which, in Heraklion, is a major thoroughfare. Patrons at the outside tables have to resist the impulse to pull their chairs in as cars pass by inches away.

We sat down and Giannis, the owner's son, bounced over with a selection of raki bottles, some labeled, some blank. The labeled ones were ignored, and a cooled clear bottle shaped like a container for Japanese sake was placed on the table. Small plates followed, wild greens in olive oil, crumbly paximadia bread, boiled prawns, and an enormous pile of small Cretan snails. "You always eat something with raki. Then, you never get drunk." Vassilis assured me. I sipped at my glass. Fortunately, no one was requiring me to throw it back intact. The was strong, but smooth with a distinct and pleasant herby flavor. Then I beheaded a prawn and then attacked the plate of snails.

"Raki, pure raki, you can drink all night with never a problem. Never a headache in the morning. But a lot of places, they mix it with something else, ordinary alcohol. But good raki, it's all okay." Finally, the house special arrived, shrimp saganaki. This dish is served steaming hot, made with shrimps baked in cheese. The snails and prawns had been good, but this was heavenly. "They are known for this," Vassilis told me.

Dinner hour was ending - it was well after 1am - and the handful of tables were emptying. We began to make motions to go. Giannis pressed on us another bottle of raki. On him, he said, drinking it with us. Then, when we made quick work of that one, he brought us a plate of preserved citrus sweets. Which of course required more raki, this next bottle "on the house". Before any more bottles could emerge, on anyone, we left.

Even for terrific raki, there are limits.

Prasinos Portes
"The Green Doors"
Pediakos 37
Central Heraklion not far from the Archaeological Museum
Tel (30) 281 02 22322
Expect to spend about 15 Euro per person for several hours of eating and drinking.

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