Fantaxometoho Winery Photo Gallery
The name translates as "Haunted Cottage". In about the 1880s, the story goes, a local farmer began reporting strange sounds and visions around his cottage at night.
Skeptics believe he was just trying to drive off young men who were raiding his farm as a convenient source of free food; others claim it was the ghosts of ancient Minoans.
But in support of the legend, the fields don't seem to have been believed to be haunted, only the 300-year-old cottage. If this was just a negative public relations campaign to scare off raiders, it seems that it would have made more sense to spread the story that the surrounding fields were haunted as well.
Visiting the Winery
The Boutari facility itself is gleaming-new, with a large air-conditioned tasting room extensive windows looking out over the vast fields of grapes.
If all this recent building has stirred up ghosts, it's not evident in the cool, subtly-lit tasting room during wine-tasting hours, where well-trained personnel bring the featured wines to your table. But viewable from the tasting area is a small path crossed with a chain and a "Do Not Enter" sign. Beyond is a non-descript building that hardly looks haunted - but that's deceptive. What is visible is a new second story built on top of the much older and allegedly haunted cottage.
Boutari itself has an ambivalent attitude toward its supernatural new holding. While it mentions the legends in its promotional materials, and has applied the name to its estate and a special vintage, individual employees may or may not know the tales. And the focus point of the hauntings - the cottage nearby - is the domain of the master vintner. He was present and I was lucky enough to persuade him to let me wander around in his private courtyard. Otherwise, would-be ghost hunters will have to keep a few yards away.
But the Boutari Fantaxometocho winery is definitely the home to another type of "ghost" - the vintners of Boutari are growing a number of endangered native Greek grape vines which have almost been wiped out as many growers have switched to better-known, internationally-profitable varieties. Some of these grapes have thrived for thousands of years on Greek soil, only to nearly vanish in the 20th century. Even if the other ghost story is not real, helping to preserve the spirit of true Greek wine makes this winery well worth a visit.
So, did I feel the presence of any ghosts while I wandered around the outside of the cottage, gazing at the blooming flowers and looking beyond at the thriving rows of vines covering the low hillsides, everything lit with the first glow of sunset? I'd just enjoyed good wines and a pleasant journey, and felt very happy and lucky to be on the island of Crete. I have a feeling the ancient Minoans felt the same love of their island, and if my sharing in that feeling is ghostly, they're welcome to haunt me any day.
When You Go to the Winery
Though there are small signs announcing "Boutari", there is nothing like the extensive signage announcing wineries in other parts of the world and making a visit almost unavoidable. You'll need to keep an eye out for ths one.
Take the road to Knossos south toward Archanes. Coming from Heraklion, after you make the left turn onto the road toward Myrta, the wine tasting facility is on the right side of the road. If you find the road makes a sharp 90 degree curve to the right as you are passing grapevines, you've just passed the winery.
At first glance, the low plain building looks too industrialized to be a tasting room. Go up the inclined road and park.
Wine tasting is available for a nominal charge of 4 Euro per person, and allows you to taste three wines. This limit was bent on my visit, and anyone who appears serious about making a purchase will probably be allowed to taste whatever they like. In my experience, they were happy to pour additional tastes without charging. During the peak tourist months, winery tours and multi-media presentations are also available.
Boutari is one of the most reliable of Greek wine makers, and virtually any bottle is going to be at least pleasant and drinkable. Their table wines offerings are widely available in the United States and elsewhere. The namesake Domaine Fantaxometocho Red is a sturdy red wine made from the Kotsifali and Mantilaria grapes grown on the estate, and is at its best with Greek grilled meat dishes.
In Greece, Boutari is moving to develop more daring and upscale wines and these are usually not produced in large enough quantities to warrant marketing them abroad. Enjoy these unique wines while you are in Greece.
Boutari Fantaxometocho Winery, Crete
70100 Skalani,
Iraklion, Crete
Telephone & Fax: (011 30) 281 0731617
Email: crete.winery@boutari.gr
