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Going to Gortyna
Vast ancient city on Crete

By deTraci Regula, About.com

Plane tree at Gortyna

The fateful plane tree at Gortyna

deTraci Regula
The ancient city of Gortyna has been inhabited since Neolithic times. <P>After being established in late Minoan times, Gortyn grew in the Archaic and Classical periods, then served as the capital under the Roman occupation, became prominent as a Christian center, and was ultimately destroyed by Saracen attackers in the 9th century. <P>It's still a busy place - on one visit, the olive harvest was underway, and beside the ancient white marble walls modern Cretan men and women were spreading fine nets under the branches.

The Two Faces of Gortyna

There are two main sections to the Gortyn site. On the east side of the road is the Basilica of St. Titus and some massive statues in a small, open-air museum, along with the usual snack bar. <P>Behind this area is the unusual evergreen plane tree said to be the spot where Zeus and Europa mated.

There is also the building containing the longest ancient inscription in the Greek world - the 6th century Law Code of Gortyn, a relatively humane document still retaining traces of Minoan influence in its treatment of women's rights.

Across the busy road lies the rest of the site, concealed by the olive trees. A couple of stone-paved paths lead to the many partially-excavated structures, and the ground is stony with bits and pieces of the ancient walls.

Visit the Temple of Pythian Apollo and the sanctuary of the Egyptian deities Isis and Serapis. Excavations may fence some areas some of the time, but when this temple is open, a short stairway allows you to descend into the old "Nilometer", a symbolic area where the flood of the Nile in Egypt was simulated for the local worshippers.

Getting to Gortyn

To travel by yourself to Gortyn, drive south out of Iraklio (Heraklion) following the road toward Mires (also spelled Moires). Keep going south. Signs will alert you to Gortyn which appears suddenly out of olive groves along the right side of the road when coming from Heraklion.

Searching for more information? Gortyna is also spelled Gortyn and Gortys.

Gortyn Tickets: 4 Euro
Free admission days
Hours: Open daily from 8am to 7:30pm (but it's a good idea to check if going late in the season)
Telephone: (011 30) 28920-31144

Get the Most Out of Your Visit to Gortyn

Either before or after your day at Gortyn, be sure to visit the Iraklion Museum. Don't miss the separate room at the far right of the museum lobby area. Since it contains Greek and Roman pieces, the understandably pro-Minoan museum doesn't promote this collection as much. (I found it while getting lost on my way to the bathroom.) This area contains some magnificent statuary from Gortyn, including Isis-Persephone and Sarapis-Pluto, complete with three-headed Cerberus at their feet.
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