Olga's Pension

Unusual rooms, great location

This magical warren of 22 unique rooms spread over several buildings and levels invites the non-traditional traveler. Popular with artists and writers, as well as the more well-heeled student or budget traveler, rooms start at 35 Euro. Many of them include a well-equipped kitchenette and charming street or courtyard views.

The owners are continuously decorating and renovating the buildings, employing a funky, artistic flair. You expect the designer to be a young retro artist, and it's a surprise when you meet the burly middle-aged Greek man behind it all, grinning over his vivid mosaics and walls covered with foreign coins arranged in artful designs.

Access is through huge old wooden doors without signs, tucked between the shops. One of the pleasures was feeling like we were really living on this atmospheric street in the heart of Old Town Rethimno, and the absence of signage made it feel more genuine. On the other hand, having trouble with getting the key to work made me feel a little like an inept thief trying to break in under the eyes of a dozen watchful shopkeepers. I finally gave up and got in the "alternate" way. This was through another similar door down the lane, up an interior stairway, out onto a lush, flower-filled patio, up a few steep steps, and then over a low wall followed by a three-foot drop onto another roof patio, down a narrow metal stair, and finally, into my building. I would not recommend this route with luggage.

Stella's Kitchen, a small coffee shop at street level, provides breakfast to the guests. It can be served on any of the several concealed patios which make staying here such an interesting voyage of discovery in itself. The restaurant run by Stella, who is actually the current "Olga". She and her artistic husband own both the pension and coffee shop.

The twisting lane outside is the old shoemaker's street, and a couple of cobblers still survive in between the jewelers, the barbers, and some exceptionally enticing souvenir stores.

Bottom line: a fun experience for the more adventurous traveler.

Olga's Rooms

57 Souliou Street
Old Town of Rethymno
74100 Rethymno - Crete
Tel: (From the US: 011 30)283 1053206
Fax: (From the US: 011 30)283 1029851
Cell: (From the US: 011 30)697 6223018
Website and booking: Olga's Pension at RethymnoGuide

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