One exception worth seeking out is the Taverna Castelo. Located at 27 Arabatzoglou "street" in the Old Town, it has the typical tables along the narrow lane. Inside, it offers dining on several levels, all open to the nighttime sky. The romantic candlelit stone stairway, augmented by shaded lamps, requires some care as there is no railing, but once you're seated it is all worth it.
The menu offers newly-interpreted Greek favorites prepared with expert flair. Prawns saganaki is an ample serving of large, tender prawns in a rich and flavorful Venetian-inspired tomato sauce. The Lamb Cooked in Honey was a dish that the Minoans could have offered to Minos himself without any shame, succulent and sweet, served with an unexpected but perfectly prepared small, stuffed baked potato.
Midway through a recent meal, the lights were turned out and nothing but tall candles illuminated the restaurant. As the last diners, we first thought we were being hurried through our meal, a surprise since the service had so far been very pleasant and attentive, but it turned out that the local power company was making a repair down the block and had turned out all the lights.
The wine list is extensive and filled with carefully-chosen wines, primarily from Greece. It's an excellent place to experiment with Greek wines, as the choices have all been carefully reviewed before earning a place on the menu. While few are true bargains, the quality is outstanding.
Expect to spend about 50 Euro for two, excluding wine.
Taverna Castelo
27 Arabatzoglou St.
Old Town, Rethymno, Crete
Tel. 2831050567
Email: CASTELLO-CRETE@marinet.gr
