Visiting Hydra
All of the Greek islands inspire awe in the power of the ruler of the deeps, Poseidon, and Hydra is no exception. On one trip, I arrived by hydrofoil from the Athenian port of Zia (Zea), the water was choppy and crowned with white caps; Greeks on the craft said that it was the highest waves that year. The whitecaps remind the Greeks of horses running along the water, and so they decided that Poseidon was also the creator of horses. The following hydrofoil was cancelled due to the high waves or galloping waterhorses, whichever you prefer. Either way, Poseidon was feeling frisky.Hydra's Harbor
Hydra presents a picture-perfect small harbor filled mainly with pleasure craft. Shops and tavernas elbow each another for room along the harbor. Walk a few yards up the winding streets to get better deals at less-fortunately placed merchants, and better meals at family tavernas. One, the long-established Douskos tavern, still makes its own retsina.Leave Your Car Behind
No cars or modern transporation are allowed on the island, with the exception of an unseen trash truck - any roads that could actually handle a trash truck are also invisible to the casual tourist. "Modern transportation", by the way, includes bicycles and motorbikes, which are prohibited. Development of the island is a touchy subject, and a recent proposal by Richard Branson to create a small, allegedly eco-friendly complex has polarized the residents.Hydra is a very popular day-cruise destination, and, generally, prices start a bit higher and lean toward luxury. There are several excellent jewelers on Hydra. For larger purchases, use cash to bargain with - friends of mine would have saved the equivalent of $200 if they could have avoided using a credit card. It's a good idea to know the exchange rate on your currency for that day - all the merchants know it. Usually the figure is identical from store to store, but be alert - clerks can make accidental errors.
Ascend to the Top
Don't miss a visit to the clock tower and the Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, now turned to more secular use as the seat of the island's civic offices. Enjoy the enduring serenity of the courtyard which is adorned with a lovely mosaic.For the more determined traveller, trudge up most of 1500-foot high Mount Eros to the monastery of Profitis Ilias and the convent of Agia Efpraxia, or even continue on to the south coast of the island and the convent of Aghii Taxiarchi. The trail to all of these is off of Miaouli Street. As is generally the case in Greece, shorts and brief tops are not appropriate attire for visiting these active religious communities, and both men and women may be turned away or offered alternate clothing if they aren't sufficiently covered.
An Art Lover's Dream
As an artist's colony, Hydra boasts a number of galleries, and artists at work may be encountered anywhere, trying to capture with paints and pigments the elusive quality of light that illuminates all of the Greek islands. There's also a small writer's community which helps support a good multilingual bookstore just off the harbor. It's a great people-watching island, with occasional sightings of celebrities who occupy the pricey houses on the cliffs. The numerous hotels are generally quite small and full of charm. On summer weekends, reservations are a must, and the relatively poor pebbly beaches are jammed. Although the map of Hydra notes a number of villages, most of the action is contained around Hydra "City" itself, and other areas can be either surprisingly slow or difficult (or both) to reach on foot.While Hydra is popular as a day-trip destination, do the island and yourself a favor - plan to stay at least overnight. You can enjoy the morning in the harbor before the tourist ships dock, and wander the narrow lanes of the town in relative solitude. But be careful - you may be the next traveller-turned-resident who never quite decides to return to the rest of the world...and who could blame you?
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Some of The Best Greek Islands
Temple-crowned Aegina - Natural Alonissos - Traditional Carpathos - Chewy Chios - Cos, The Doctors' Island - Queenly Crete - Dignified Delos - Do it all on Donoussa - Hydra, Artist's Island - Odysseus' Ithaca - Kalokairi "Mamma Mia" Island - Spongy Kalymnos - Aphrodite's Kythira - Lesvos, More than Sappho - Lovely Leros - Mighty Mykonos - Paros Paradise - Pirate Islands - Pastoral Patmos - Volcanic Santorini - Sexy Skopelos - The Dreamy Small Cyclades - Easy Spetses - Symi Summers - Very Greek Syros - Honeyed Thassos - Tilos, Island of Elephants
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