Images of Delos

Millennia ago, it was declared illegal for anyone to have the bad manners of being born or dying on the island of Delos, said to be the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Their mother, Leto, gave birth while clinging to a palm tree, a symbol of now-nearly-treeless Delos, and it was considered impious to be born in the sacred island. At the time of this decree, generations of Delians had already been buried. Their remains were exhumed and transported across the channel to the neighboring island of Rhenia. Except for a few archaeologists, most of whom leave the island in winter, it remains a quiet refuge. Even the masses of tourists in the summer are swallowed up by the immensity of the site.

Maybe it is the radiant mythological presence of the sun-god Apollo which makes the light so brilliant on Delos. In the dry summer months, the old marble seems to be glowing with a light of its own.

In its glory, the present-day Archaeological Island of Delos was the banking center of the Aegean, crammed with merchants alongside the abundant temples. It was the heart of the Delian Confederation, and is the hub island around which the circling Cyclades are named.

Make sure to allow time to stop at the excellent on-site museum, where some beautiful finds are displayed.

Often neglected on the tours is the charming Temple of Isis. This late but Doric-style temple overlooks the harbor and is often the first structure noticed by arriving tourists. Make the ascent to see this small sacred space, still occupied by an unfortunately headless statue of Isis. In front of the temple, take note of the unusual Babylonian-style horned incense altar, where once fragrances rose up to delight the goddess.

The winds on Delos are strong, and the island lacks much in the way of tourist snacks -bring your own water as your wandering will take you far from the snack bar. The gift shop offers some unique Delos-themed items which this souvenir junkie discovered really aren't available anywhere else in Greece. Look for clothing adorned with a stylized female figure taken from one of the Delian mosaics - even nearby Mykonos usually won't have these in stock.

There are no accomodations for tourists on Delos - it is strictly a day visit from Mykonos. While the island is technically open in the early morning, unless you have your own yacht, there is no official way of getting to it until later, when the first boats arrive. A large variety of boats leave from the small harbor at Venezia, the on-the-water section of Mykonos filled with pleasant tavernas. Bigger ones will tend to be a smoother ride, but be prepared for the thought of rough water. Uncomfortable? Light a candle at the small chapel dedicated to the safety of those who travel at sea, conveniently located where the boats dock.